Frequently asked questions

First you will need to know your filter size. The most common sizes are 20x30x1, 20x25x1, and 20x20x1, but there are many different sizes. As for what kind, it depends on how much filtration and efficiency you want. Filters are labeled with numbers from 1 to 16 — the filter’s “minimum efficiency reporting value,” or MERV. The higher the MERV value, the higher its capacity to collect dirt and air particles. But the higher the MERV value, the thicker the filter, which can put a strain on your blower motor. If you have allergies, a higher MERV value is a benefit; if not, stick with a thinner filter to allow your system better return air flow.

Filters should be replaced once a month. This is something very easy and important you can do to maintain your unit. Dirty filters put very high strain on the unit and will dramatically lower efficiency. Did you know that 70% of cooling issues come from poor air flow, not refrigerant?

On each outdoor condensing unit there is a sticker with the Model and Serial Number. The model number contains the tonnage size and the serial number contains the age. Within the model number’s string of numbers and letters you will see a two-digit number that is an increment of 12 (meaning 12,000 BTUs): 24 = 2 ton, 36 = 3 ton, 42 = 3.5 ton, 48 = 4 ton, and 60 = 5 ton. Serial numbers are a little more difficult because they change depending on the manufacturer. Goodman: the first two numbers give you the year. Day and Night/Carrier: the 3rd and 4th numbers before the letter. Trane: the date is posted mm/yy. If you are unsure, give us a call and schedule an inspection and we can add the information to our report.

Estimates are FREE! We will come to your house, check the unit, take measurements, and discuss options with you. We give you information, answer questions you may have, and allow you to make an informed decision. We want you to feel confident with your purchase!

Summer is our busy season and A/C companies all over get very busy here in Arizona. Even still, after approval we have a one to two day turnaround time to have your unit ordered, installed, and cooling/heating as it should!

Ice on the line or the indoor coil almost always means one of two things: not enough air moving across the coil, or low refrigerant. The airflow side is the common one — a clogged filter, a dirty evaporator coil, a failing blower motor, or too many closed vents. Without enough warm air passing over it, the coil drops below freezing and condensation turns to ice. The other cause is a refrigerant leak, which drops pressure and has the same effect. Either way, shut the system off and run just the fan to thaw it out (running it frozen can damage the compressor), replace the filter, and give us a call. If a fresh filter doesn’t fix it, it’s a leak or a coil that needs cleaning — both things we diagnose on the spot.

Your A/C pulls a surprising amount of humidity out of the air, and that water has to drain somewhere. Nine times out of ten a leak means the condensate drain line is clogged with algae or dust, so the water backs up and overflows the drain pan. Other causes are a rusted-through drain pan, a disconnected drain line, or a frozen coil that’s melting faster than the pan can handle. It’s worth taking seriously — the water usually finds drywall or a ceiling before you find it. Shut the system off to stop the overflow and call us. Clearing a drain line is a routine, inexpensive service call, and it’s one of the things we check on every tune-up so it doesn’t happen in the first place.

Nationally you’ll hear 15 to 20 years. Arizona is harder on equipment than almost anywhere else — our systems run long cycles for five months straight in extreme heat, so a realistic expectation here is 10 to 15 years. Well-maintained units regularly reach the top of that range; neglected ones often don’t make 10. What moves the needle most is annual maintenance, changing filters monthly, and keeping the outdoor condenser coil clean and clear of debris. Once a unit is past 12 years old and facing a major repair like a compressor or coil, that’s the point where replacement usually makes better financial sense — and we’ll show you the math either way instead of just pushing a new system.

The Department of Energy recommends 78°F when you’re home, and most Valley homeowners land somewhere between 75 and 80. Every degree you raise the setting saves roughly 3% on cooling costs. The bigger tip is to avoid big swings: setting the thermostat to 85 while you’re at work and then asking the system to pull the house down to 72 at 6 PM is brutal on the equipment and often costs more than it saves, because the unit runs flat-out during the hottest part of the day. Setting back 4 to 6 degrees while you’re out is the sweet spot. A smart thermostat handles this automatically — and one important note: if your system genuinely can’t reach your setting on a 115° day, that’s not a thermostat problem, that’s a system that needs to be looked at.

Yes. Regular maintenance is the single cheapest thing you can do to avoid a breakdown in July, and it’s what keeps a system near the long end of its lifespan. Our tune-up is a 21-point inspection that covers refrigerant levels, electrical connections, capacitors and contactors, the condensate drain, coil condition, and airflow — the parts that actually fail here. Most Valley homes are best served by two visits a year: cooling in the spring and heating in the fall. Call or send a service request and we’ll walk you through the current plan options and pricing for your system.

R-22 was the standard refrigerant in older systems for decades, and it was phased out of production and import in the United States in 2020 because of its effect on the ozone layer. Your older system is still perfectly legal to run and we can still service it — but the only R-22 left is recycled or reclaimed stock, and the price has climbed steeply. The practical impact: if a unit running R-22 develops a significant refrigerant leak, recharging it can cost more than the repair is worth, and that cost only goes up over time. If your system is R-22 and still running well, keep it and maintain it. If it’s R-22 and leaking, that’s usually the moment to seriously price out a replacement — newer systems use R-410A or R-454B and are meaningfully more efficient. We’ll tell you honestly which situation you’re in.